Tech Tip... Stock spring replacement

       A couple quick tips on replacing stock springs with updated , heavier duty springs.

Remove the shock/spring assembly from the vehicle

Using shop towel or rag to protect the shock painted surface,

Mount assembly in vice or clamping workbench

Install spring compressor tool. Get as low and high as you can on the spring.

I have seen ratchet straps used for this but they are cumbersome and bulky to use.

Spring compressor tools can be found at most parts/tool stores and are usually  pretty reasonably priced 

Having the proper tool will save a tone of time and some SORE fingers.

With the spring now collapsed, The retainer clip at the top of the spring/shock assembly will 

be loose, remove it and relieve the spring compressor.

Compare the old spring with the new one to make sure the ends are the same diameter

and that they will fit over shock and into retainer sockets.

------ HINT -------

Using the fingers cut off work gloves on the spring compressor hooks, will save nicks and

dings on the finish of the new spring.

Take time to clean and inspect the shock assembly.

Collapse the new spring enough to reassemble and insert the locking clip, making sure it is 

"pocketed " properly with the top on the new spring

Inspect the shock/spring assembly after reassembly to make sure 

the spring is sitting correctly on the shock and is "pocketed" 

correctly top and bottom.

REPEAT the steps for the other 3 shock/spring assemblies. 

Take a moment to admire your work.

Reinstall the new shock/spring assemblies onto the vehicle.

NOTE... Most replacement springs will create a slightly higher

vehicle ride height, and generally a much better ride than factory.

These were from a Polaris RZR std. and the factory springs are pretty soft (especially the front).

After reassembly and re torque, take for a test burn and than recheck the torque.

ENJOY ! 

   

Clean up and INSPECT .....

Time for the bi-annual check up. 

Tearing down the BRUTE to clean and inspect all the chassis components, I do this at least twice a year. 

I recommend you do the same ... yes most ATV's and UTV's are a pain to get all the body work off, and I guaranty that you will cuss the demonic engineer that designed it to begin with.

That being said, Stripping the "skin" will give you the opportunity to inspect the largest portion of the chassis joints, suspension components, drive components and cooling system, AND give you the chance to really, REALLY get it cleaned up.

I have found sand and mud in spots I didn't know it could get and have , on other machine, discovered minor weld and frame cracks that were easy repairs and prevented potentially large disasters.

My advice , tear that sucker down and "give 'er a good lookover". As a tech tip, if you ATV or UTV has as many sorted fasteners as mine does.... use zip-lock bags to categorize where the fasteners go ( write on them with a sharpie). Seems kinda silly but it works great to keep all the hardware going back to the right spots.

Once it is stripped, wipe it all down and look close at all the joints and weld spots. Clean all the external body parts separately, and lay a good polish on them, (We use SC-1 Clear Coat Polish). It will make the next teardown and cleanup go even faster.

When you are done and the ATV or UTV is reassembled you will be amazed at how much better it looks, and you can ride without thinking  did I check that,  or did I do this... Wait whats that noise.

Heck, It may be so clean when you are done, you may fall in love with your machine all over again.

MUZZYS Digi-Tune install KFX450R

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Installing the MUZZYS Digi-Tune on a Kawasaki KFX450R

Remove the seat , Remove the side panels - 2 screws on fuel tank, 2 bolts on frame (located by upper mount for rear shock) , 2 bolts at front bottom corners,
     Remove 2 bolts holding fuel tank.

GENTLY pry up on fuel tank ( check and make sure you are not pinching plug wire) .
     Locate injector connector (grey connector w/ wht/rd, blu/ppl wires) and unplug connector ( they are hard to unlock and unplug) DO NOT
pull on wiring when unplugging.

Plug the connectors of the MUZZYS
Digi-Tune into each corresponding
connector end (we recommend using di-electric grease in connectors), loop unused wiring and secure under
fuel tank, where it will not interfere with anything.
    There is an existing ground on the frame next to the fuel tank mount
bolt hole, We shortened the ground wire and ran it there.

Start engine and make sure MUZZYS Digi-Tune lights up and scrolls the LED readout on startup.

     Pick where you want to mount the Digi-Tune and fit check to make sure there is no interference with parts that you have to reinstall ( seat covers, fuel tank) use Velcro attaching pad (self adhesive and supplied in kit) to locate the tuner . We placed ours on the upper rear shock mount.






     Reassemble Fuel tank and side covers ( use loctite blue on bolts and screws).
     Reinstall seat, test ride and adjust MUZZYS Digi-Tune if needed (using provided instructions).
For best results we recommend a MUZZYS Performance exhaust @ www.muzzys.com .

I was riding and it died .....

" A buddy of mine was riding it and said it just died" , That is how the conversation started. After going through the electrical / ignition system thoroughly and rebuilding the carb (was pretty dirty and accell. pump was plugged), still had the same issue.

I ran a compression test and UH-O.

So tore it down and found the piston cracked all the way across top and down sides, directly in line with the wrist pin.

Stay tuned for parts specs and reassembly !

When loading ........ BRAKES

Doing some maintenance and repairs on a customers outlanders. It seems that when loading

The big 500 someone missed the brake and rear ended the 400, pretty hard. 

We were able to fix the front end and straighten the bent parts back to stock position. For as bad as it looked, Surprisingly not too much damage. 

The customer was very happy with the end result .

JR50 going home.....

Got the resurrection of the JR50 completed. A fun little bike for sure. It is safe and ready for our customers kid #3 to take the bars. 

When they picked it up you could not wipe the smile off the little ones face , or get him off the seat  ! 

The smiles make it worthwhile for sure.

New project... Restore on a JR50

A customer of mine had this old JR50 he wants to get back going for his kid. 

The front forks are blown out and full of water, it has a real bad oil leak from the oil injector , the foot peg/ kickstand assy. is loose and missing bolts, the carb is plugged up, the throttle is loose , and it needs a good clean up . 

More to follow.....