Tech Tip... Stock spring replacement

       A couple quick tips on replacing stock springs with updated , heavier duty springs.

Remove the shock/spring assembly from the vehicle

Using shop towel or rag to protect the shock painted surface,

Mount assembly in vice or clamping workbench

Install spring compressor tool. Get as low and high as you can on the spring.

I have seen ratchet straps used for this but they are cumbersome and bulky to use.

Spring compressor tools can be found at most parts/tool stores and are usually  pretty reasonably priced 

Having the proper tool will save a tone of time and some SORE fingers.

With the spring now collapsed, The retainer clip at the top of the spring/shock assembly will 

be loose, remove it and relieve the spring compressor.

Compare the old spring with the new one to make sure the ends are the same diameter

and that they will fit over shock and into retainer sockets.

------ HINT -------

Using the fingers cut off work gloves on the spring compressor hooks, will save nicks and

dings on the finish of the new spring.

Take time to clean and inspect the shock assembly.

Collapse the new spring enough to reassemble and insert the locking clip, making sure it is 

"pocketed " properly with the top on the new spring

Inspect the shock/spring assembly after reassembly to make sure 

the spring is sitting correctly on the shock and is "pocketed" 

correctly top and bottom.

REPEAT the steps for the other 3 shock/spring assemblies. 

Take a moment to admire your work.

Reinstall the new shock/spring assemblies onto the vehicle.

NOTE... Most replacement springs will create a slightly higher

vehicle ride height, and generally a much better ride than factory.

These were from a Polaris RZR std. and the factory springs are pretty soft (especially the front).

After reassembly and re torque, take for a test burn and than recheck the torque.

ENJOY ! 

   

Clean up and INSPECT .....

Time for the bi-annual check up. 

Tearing down the BRUTE to clean and inspect all the chassis components, I do this at least twice a year. 

I recommend you do the same ... yes most ATV's and UTV's are a pain to get all the body work off, and I guaranty that you will cuss the demonic engineer that designed it to begin with.

That being said, Stripping the "skin" will give you the opportunity to inspect the largest portion of the chassis joints, suspension components, drive components and cooling system, AND give you the chance to really, REALLY get it cleaned up.

I have found sand and mud in spots I didn't know it could get and have , on other machine, discovered minor weld and frame cracks that were easy repairs and prevented potentially large disasters.

My advice , tear that sucker down and "give 'er a good lookover". As a tech tip, if you ATV or UTV has as many sorted fasteners as mine does.... use zip-lock bags to categorize where the fasteners go ( write on them with a sharpie). Seems kinda silly but it works great to keep all the hardware going back to the right spots.

Once it is stripped, wipe it all down and look close at all the joints and weld spots. Clean all the external body parts separately, and lay a good polish on them, (We use SC-1 Clear Coat Polish). It will make the next teardown and cleanup go even faster.

When you are done and the ATV or UTV is reassembled you will be amazed at how much better it looks, and you can ride without thinking  did I check that,  or did I do this... Wait whats that noise.

Heck, It may be so clean when you are done, you may fall in love with your machine all over again.